Archive for the ‘Beekeeping Equipment’ Category

If you want to keep bees in a populated area, you will need to know the basics of bee biology, property rights, and human psychology. It can be done with very few problems. Even in a city it is possible for bees to find enough pollen to feed them and produce a honey crop at harvest. Beekeepers in the suburbs and cities need to manage their bees so they do not create a problem for the neighbors. Measures can be takes to alter the keep the bees from becoming a nuisance to other people. To do this we need to understand the circumstances, which cause bees to bother other people. The bees flight pattern is one of the ways bees can be a problem for other people. When the bees leave their hives to gather food, they will fly 3-4 feet off the ground. You can prevent them from crossing paths of people walking in their flight path by planting a hedge or building a fence at least 6 feet tall. This forces the bees to fly above the fence. The hives can also be placed on the rooftop, which starts them out flying at a higher level than most people walk. Fence, hedges, and rooftops also provide seclusion, which is very important. By keeping bees out of sight they will not be the target of vandalism or theft, also keeping bees out of sight will alleviate worried neighbors. To keep the bees happy it is important for their hives have to be in a certain condition. A good location is for the hive to be in full sun all day, shaded bees will be more aggressive. The hives should be dry and the bottom boards angled so that water runs out of the hives. The hives need to be elevated with hive stands to keep the bees off the ground and to allow for airflow to keep the bottom board dry.  Also with the hives 4 to 6 inches off the ground will make it less likely for grass and weeds to obstruct the view. If you live in a congested area, a top entrance is probably not a good idea, especially during the summer. When ever a hive with a top entrance is opened and hive bodies moved, hundreds of confused bees will be fling around because their entrance is gone. This will probably worry you and your neighbors. By providing only a bottom entrance, and working from the side or from behind the hive, the bees are not impeded from flying home even when all the upper boxes are removed. Always keep the equipment in good repair. You don’t want the cracks or chips in the hives providing extra holes for flight. A bee only stings as a defense against intruders that might want to cause harm to the hive.  Whenever a hive is open, the bees are in their most dangerous state. During a nectar flow, many of the older workers will be in the field hunting for food. This is the best time to examine the colony.  During the summer more bees will be in the hive and the situation can change, especially between the nectar flows. There can be some robbing going on at this time, which will make the bees even more defensive at any intrusion to their hive. Leaving the colony open for more than a few minutes can accelerate a robbing as can leaving cappings or honey exposed. It will become a necessity to reduce the entrance of a weak colony to prevent stronger hives attempt to rob from it. A honey flow will reduce the likelihood of robbing. The mood of the bees can have a lot to do with the weather or the time of day. On the days of rainy weather, cool temperatures, early in the morning or late in the afternoon will be more likely to make them angry and they will attack.  Always inspect them on warm, sunny days in the middle of the day when most of the bees are foraging. Keep a constant warm water supply for the bees to cool the hive and dilute honey to feed t heir young. They will collect water from the closest water source. If you do not have a constant supply of shallow water for the bees, they will look for it somewhere else, like the neighbor’s pool, birdbath or wading ponds. The bees are more likely to drown in those sources. If you have a water supply for them when they first fly out in spring, they will not go anywhere else for water. Once they find a water source, it is hard to keep them from going back to it. A beekeeper must keep the bees in control every time the hive is open. A typical hive can house thousands of workers all capable of stinging. There are measures a beekeeper can take in the open that he can not take in the city because of the closeness of other people. Smoke is the most important tool for the beekeeper opening a hive. Smoke should be used in moderation, but the smoker should be capable of producing large volumes of smoke on short notice. The beekeeper must smoke the entrance of the hive, under the cover, and periodically smoke the frames while the hive is open. Try not to jar the hive or the frames as that may anger the bees, which will make it hard for a beekeeper to do his work. The beekeeper must work quickly and carefully. By going through the frames several times a year, the beekeeper keeps the frames movable. Remove any excess combs.

There are two bacterial diseases that beekeepers must be on the lookout for they are American Foulbrood and European Foulbrood. The American Foulbrood, also known as AFB, is the most serious of the bacterial diseases of honeybee brood and is caused by the bacterium Paenibacillus larvae. This disease is started and can be transferred only in the spore stage. The reason for the seriousness of the disease is the spores can remain alive and last for an undetermined length of time on beekeeper’s equipment. It is highly contagious and spreads easily via contaminated equipment, hive tools, and beekeeper’s hands. The best way to handle the American Foulbrood is to avoid it at all possibilities. To detect the disease examine the larvae. Normal healthy larvae are white, but the infected broods turn chocolate-brown and melt into a gooey mass on the floor of the cell. The colonies will display a “pepper box symptom” as the disease progresses. The “pepper box symptom” is when the bees are capping the cells, the brood capping are perforated and sunken into the cell. When the larvae are brown and have not formed a hardened scale, the symptom of ropiness can be demonstrated. To do this, poke at stick into this mass, moisten it and withdraw it from the cell. The contents will draw out like melted cheese, the ropiness, if AFB is present. As the dead larvae dries, it becomes a black scale that sticks tightly to the cell floor. These scales are difficult to remove and are site for re-infection. A single scale can contain one billion spores. It only takes 35 spores to trigger the disease. These scales are difficult to see and easily missed when purchasing used equipment. If you are around a colony that is extremely infected with American Foulbrood, it will emit a foul odor like a chicken coop. The colony dwindles and eventually collapses as more and more brood become infected and dies. The beekeeper has an advantage if new equipment and tools can be purchased, install packaged bees and maintain them in total isolation from other apiaries, hive collections. Of course this is not realistic or practical, but it always makes good sense to practice sanitation, such as washing hands and hive tools regularly. Avoid using hive equipment of unknown history, and avoid feeding bees honey from an unknown source. It is possible to breed bees that are genetically resistant to American Foulbrood and other diseases. One of the most important characteristics is the disease resistant bees is the ability to detect and remove from the colony abnormal cells of brood. The resistant queens are available from nationally advertised queen breeders. You will find the advertisements in the “American Bee Journal”, “Bee Culture”, and “Speedy Bee”. European Foulbrood, also known as EFB, is another of the bacterial diseases that effect the honeybee brood. There are some differences between the European Foulbrood and the American Foulbrood. The colonies infected with the American Foulbrood sometimes recover from the infection. The symptoms can sometimes be mistaken for those of the American Foulbrood, but there are some important differences. Instead of being a normal healthy white, the larvae with European Foulbrood are off-white, progressing into a brown, and are twisted in various positions in the cell. Larvae with European Foulbrood usually die before they are capped whereas with American Foulbrood die after they are capped. The sanitation precautions recommended in the section on American Foulbrood also apply to the European Foulbrood. Bee stocks that are bred for resistance to diseases can be expected to minimize outbreaks of European Foulbrood. There are times at the onset of a strong nectar flow that the disease will go away on its own. The beekeeper may be able to control the disease by stimulating a nectar flow and by requeening the colony. There is a preventative measure that can be used on either the American Foulbrood or the European Foulbrood, and is periodical treatments of the veterinary antibiotic TerramycinJ. It is fed as a mixture in either powdered sugar, sugar syrup, or in vegetable oil extender patties. It is very important to never feed the antibiotic within four weeks of a nectar flow to avoid contamination honey for human consumption. The use of TerramycinJ in European Foulbrood infected colonies may actually be counter productive because the medication permits those infected larvae to survive when they would have died. These survivors then are in the colony as a source of recontamination. If the infected larvae die instead, the house bees eject them from the hive and with them the source of the infection. The bacterium does not form long-surviving spores that will stay on the hive surfaces. There has been recent evidence of the disease becoming resistant to the antibiotic. One of the suspected causes is the use of the oil extender patties as a method of medicating the bees. If the bees do not consume the patties rapidly, it leads to the antibiotic staying in the hive for weeks or even months. Until the use of the oil extender patties in the 1990′s, resistance was not a problem. Beekeepers are now being told to remove uneaten patties after a month. Sacbrood is a virus infection that is like a cold in humans. There is no known cure at this time. The best preventive measure is sanitation. Comb replacement and requeening the colony is the best response to the infection. Beekeepers do not consider sacbrood a serious threat, however one larva killed by the sacbrood virus contains enough virus to kill over one million larvae. More research needs to be done on the sacbrood virus. It is unknown how the virus is transmitted to the larvae in nature, why severe outbreaks occur only during build-up season, or how the virus seems to return year after year. Symptoms of sacbrood are partially uncapped cells scattered about the frame or capped cells that remain sealed after others have emerged. Diseased bees inside the cells will have darkened heads, which curl upward. The dead prepupa resembles a slipper inside the cell. Diseased prepupae fail to pupate and turn from pearl white to pale yellow to light brown and finally, dark brown. The skin is loose and flabby and the body watery. The dark brown bee becomes a wrinkled, brittle scale that is easily removed from the cells.

Bee keeping is a hobby, believe it or not. These little stinging creatures can be a lot of fun if handled with care and there are a lot of sweet returns too. However, if you intend to take up this hobby iyou are best advised to get some basic knowledge about bee keeping – and the necessary mandatory equipment too if you do not want the post office calling you to collect your bees from their viscinity.
Now, the most basic piece of equipment that is required for bee keeping is the bee hive itself. Let us take some time to understand the structure and the necessity of the bee hive. It is not like you are required to go out and get yourself a natural bee hive from out of a tree. THis is not at all recommended as these little creatures are very possesive of theit home and the occupants so you may just as well land yourself in bed with multiple stings that may also prove fatal at times. The hive we are talking about is contruced out of wood and looks like a small wooden cabinet to be kept outdoors.
The beehive you need should have 5 supers. These are the most important part of a bee hive as this is the part of the hive that the bees use to store their product – honey. These 5 supers are placed between the base of teh hive and the top cover. Each of the 5 supers contain 9 to 10 frames where theb bees keep their off spring and honey. You decide if you want to have deep supers or shallow supers. Deep supers mean that you will have to get yourself a one – size foundation unlike the shallow super where you wil need multiple size foundations. The bad part of a deep super is that you will have to lug out a hundred pound weight when it is full.
When you are ready to set up yur hive ensure that you place it on a flat surface where it will be pretty difficult for the hive to tip over when a strong wind blows. Also place it in a place where people and animals will not be able to reach it and disturb the bees.
Now for something called a spacer. these are bits of equipment or rather wooden planks that are used to space out the frames in the super. You will need a few of these but do not wory a beehive kit will usually have all that you wil require to set up your bee hive.
Now when the bees have created enough honey and you need to get it out of the hive you will need to have a ‘smoker’. This is not a cigarette puffing human but a piece of bee keepng equipment that is used to ‘smoke’ the bees away from the hive so that you can safely cllect the produce inside the supers. Smokers are simple in design and are constructed out of a funnel and bellows. You will need to use some smoking material such as ‘Brlap’ to create a lot of smoke, dried corn cobs are another good alternative to create a lot of smoke.
Your bee hive will come with a metal hive tool used to pry open the beehive and scrape the honey from the frames. A furmer board is used to engourage the bees to leave a super and let you take their honeycombs. Now for the bees themselves, You could order them or set up your bee hive and wait patiently until they find it and build their colony themselves.
Go to the net and find the best way to order your bee hive and also the inmates. This may be the start of a very interesting hobby.

Beekeeping is a hobby practiced by millions of people around the world. It can be an inexpensive, healthy and satisfying personal experience. It can be undertaken as a part-time or even a full-time vocation. Beekeeping also benefits gardens by helping to pollinate crops, as the bees take the pollen from plant to plant. Many people find beekeeping relaxing and interesting, as bees are rather absorbing creatures to watch on the job. Not only would it be a task of interest, it reaps its benefits of honey and beeswax. Natural unfiltered honey has high levels of antioxidants which helps relieve our bodies of stressors and reduces the chances of certain cancers. Beeswax has a variety of uses including candles, skin creams and lip balms. Keeping bees involves having hives with layers that have frames of cones. This is where the bees have their young, put pollen and produce honey. They can be bought with bees already in them, or they might be purchased separately in packages. There are three types of bees; the queen, workers, and drones. Workers are female bees that feed larvae, gather and collect pollen and honey, make wax, clean the cells in the hive, and protect the hive. Drones are male bees that function only to mate with the queen. A beekeeper inspects the bee colony to make sure the queen is laying her eggs and carries no sign of disease. The colony needs preventative medication about every two weeks to attempt to save the hive from any disease that might rampage it. In summertime, the hive gets extra frames to hold honey production and so they have more room. When all frames in a layer (called a super) are full of honey, with about half of the frame cells coated with wax, its about time to extract the honey. When winter begins to approach the keeper had two options; to kill off the colony and buy more bees come spring, or, “winter” the bees. The colony is given sugar and water for food to make it through the winter months. They can be kept either indoors or outdoors. If the bees are kept outdoors, insulation and plastic needs to be placed around their hives. Some bees will likely die, but the colony itself will be maintained, even if the hives are covered in snow. A beekeeper requires other equipment such as a smoker for calming the bees and a veil to prevent the bees from walking over his or her face, which can be a little unnerving. A bee suit and gloves might be used, but are not necessarily required. It is said that working with the bees with bare hands gives one more feel for what they are doing. Also, bare hands leads to less jarring of the hive, keeping the bees calmer. Keeping bees does involve a sting now and then. For most people, the initial sting causes some pain, and then some discomfort for a short period of time. One simply needs to watch for signs of developing an allergy to stings which may include hives on the body and shortness of breath. There is also a very small percentage of the population that has a chance of going into analphylactic shock from the bee sting. Beekeeping is becoming more and more popular by hobbyists. Beekeeping can be a fun and fulfilling practice with the right knowledge and tools.

1. The new beekeeper
The new beekeeper will be more than enthusiastic to have his new bees arrive by post.
Before the bees arrive he would have chosen a suitable place to put his new bees in along with the new hive. The place for the bee hive would have to be in a secluded area where the bees will not be disturbed by both humans and animals. The hive also has to be in a place where strong winds will not knock it down.
Before the bees arrive it would be a good thing to try out the safety equipment and specially the body suit so that you are well protected and do not get stung. The post office will keep you informed on the arrival of the bees, and once they come will ask you to come and take your dangerous parcel away as soon as possible.
2. The newly arrived bees
In the container you will probably find a few bees lying dead, but this is to be expected after the stressful journey that they have undertaken. The rest of the bees will be alright and will have to be transferred to the new hive that you have set up for them from the container that they were shipped in. Before trying to transfer the bees make sure that you have the safety gear on and also the smoker ready. Inside the shipping container there will be a smaller container; this has the queen bee in it. This box will be closed with a cork, and if you remove the cork there will be another stopper inside that is made of sugar.
3. Placing the queen in the hive
The queen’s container should be hung inside the hive that has been prepared for the new bees. Now pierce a hole in the sugar so that the worker bees will be able to free the queen bee easier and allow her to escape into the hive. Care should be taken that the queen bee is not damaged in anyway while you pierce the sugar cube as it is not easy to find a replacement for the queen bee during winter months.
After the queen bee has been put into the hive, blow a puff of smoke into the container with the other bees and allow them out into the hive. The bees will automatically spill out of the container into the hive and settle down there. Make sure you put a feeder filled with ordinary sugar n to the hive. If there are any bees still in the container just leave the container near the hive and they will go into it on their own. The bees prefer being changed from the container to the hive wither early in the morning or in the evening time.
4. A week for the bees to settle down
The bees will take at least a week to settle down to their new hive and then the queen bee will start laying her eggs and the bees will also start making honey.

1. What it takes to start bee keeping
Bee keeping is not a very expensive venture and for anyone with a little space it is possible to start this business with just about $300 for one hive. This is enough to get started with and you can expand later if space permits. However, the very first thing that you should do is to find out whether you or any family member of yours is allergic to bee stings, if not you can go ahead and get your first bee hive. Another point that you should clarify from the local cooperative office, is whether you are permitted to keep bee hives in your area. If you can do so, then you will have get registered as a beekeeper with the beekeeping organization.
2. Select a suitable place to cultivate your bees
Once you have your beehive, you can keep it away from the home somewhere in the corner of your back yard in a spot which you feel will be suitable to have your beehive.
You will have to have the necessary equipment for maintaining your beehives successfully. You can find out about the equipment that you will need from the Federation of American Beekeepers or Cooperative Extension office of your locality. Most of the equipment is available online and through Ebay. You could search on the internet and get all the information and equipment that you need and order it to be mailed to you.
3. Play it safe with bee hives
You will have to ensure that you have the proper beekeepers tackle and do not get stung by bees. Make sure that all those who will be handling the bees have this gear available to them whenever required.
4. Place an order for your bees at an apiary
Order your bees only after you have all the equipment and the bee hive in place. The apiary where you order the bees from should be one that is well established. Winter is usually the bet time to order your bees, which means around January or February and you will get your shipment of bees by March or April. The U S postal service carries the bees for apiaries and will inform you once the bees arrive so that you can come and pick them up. Mail carriers do not like to carry a box full of bees that are agitated with the journey all over the countryside. You should pick up the bees as soon as possible as they are not going to remain healthy for too long in the confines of a vehicle.
5. Bees are packed in a “House”
Bees are normally shipped in wooden cases specially made for this purpose. The package will have a sign saying “house” on it. These wooden frames are covered with a screen which allows air circulation and also protects those who have to handle this package like the people from the postal service, from being stung.
There will usually be a few dead bees lying on the bottom of the container, but do not get perturbed. This usually happens as you cannot expect all the bees to take the journey well. You will find the remaining bees clutching on to the sides of their container.
6. The queen bee
The queen bee is kept separately along with a few nurse bees, and her container will be covered with a piece of sugar candy. The rest of the bees for your bee hive will be put in a container together and these will form the remaining hierarchy. In this container there will be a bowl of sugar syrup which is for the bees to feed on while traveling. The bees will need a drink once you get them home, for this you should spray the container with a fine spray of water. Now your bees are home and you can get started on your bee hive.

Honey bees are the types of bee which make honey, and you’ll find thousands upon thousands of different species scattered all over the World – with the exception that is, of the North and South Poles and some of the extremely hot deserts. If you love honey and the wonderful health benefits it bestows upon you, you may be tempted to keep some of these industrious insects yourself, either as a fascinating hobby or as a profitable business venture. But let’s look first at how these busy little creatures actually make the product they’re so famous for.

Making Honey

Making honey is no easy task and all the little honey bees work extremely hard. In each hive you’ll discover a queen bee that gives birth to workers bees, and it’s the worker bees that make the honey. Basically, you have two types of worker bee – the older worker bee and the younger worker bee. The older worker bee will leave the hive to collect nectar from surrounding flowers. Once his little honey stomach is full, an inversion procedure occurs whereby enzymes break down complex sugars into simpler ones. On returning to the hive, the older worker bee will disgorge the resulting liquid, and the younger worker bees then take over. They’ll taste and test the modified nectar, convert what they consider suitable into pure honey, and deposit it in the top of one of the honey comb cells. They’ll then fan the honey by flapping their wings for several hours, so that any remaining water evaporates and the sugars thicken. Finally, they seal the honey up.

Beekeeping

Beekeeping is an extremely rewarding and satisfying activity, but you need to take it seriously and with care. If you’re new to it, the ideal way to learn is by watching an expert. Once you’re confident that you know what you’re doing, then it’s time to purchase your equipment. You’ll need a new, good quality hive – ideally of red cedar – including roof and floor, three super boxes, a crown board, a queen excluder, and a separate brood box. You’ll also need protective clothing, tools to open the hive and extract the honey, and a smoker to stun the bees slightly whilst collecting the honey. If you’re not surrounded by plenty of colorful flowers then you may also need a feeder to feed sugar syrup to your bees.

Once your beekeeping equipment is installed, the next step is to get your honey bees. Packaged bees are a good option for the beginner as, although they don’t produce tremendous amounts of honey, they’re non-aggressive and easier to handle. Make sure you keep your hives clean, surrounded by colorful, pesticide-free flowers, and you’re sure to enjoy the benefits not only of deliciously healthy honey, but also of bee pollen and royal jelly.

Honey bees have a tremendously hard existence and receive very little reward for all the good work they do of pollinating flowers and making honey. Without them you’d have far fewer flowers and crops, and wouldn’t be able to benefit from Nature’s most powerful natural healer and medicine. So, make the most of honey and even consider keeping your own honey bees. It’s a fascinating hobby, you’ll grow to love and respect the little creatures, and your health will benefit no end.

As long as you aren’t allergic to bee stings beekeeping is a way for someone who doesn’t have a great deal of money and acres of land to take an active role in agriculture. The start up expense of the average hive is approximately $300 per hive (you only need one to get begin with). Once you have purchased a hive it can be kept in a remote corner of your back yard, it is not uncommon to see some suburban homes with a bee hive. If you are considering starting a beehive the first thing you should do is call your local Cooperative Extension office. They will be able to tell you if you live in an area that restricts keeping bees. They will also be able to give you the contact information of your states beekeeping organization where you can become a registered beekeeper. The next thing you need to do is select a site for your potential honey bee hive. Once you have selected a site for your beehive you will need to go about acquiring the equipment needed to successfully maintain a beehive. Some of the equipment you will need can be purchased used on EBay. If you are unable to find the equipment you need on EBay there are several on-line sites where you can purchase equipment. If you need further assistance finding and purchasing a beehive and other beekeeping equipment call your local Cooperative Extension office or the Federation of American Beekeepers. Before acquiring bees for your hive it’s important to make sure that you are properly protected, this means you have to purchase beekeepers gear. Once your hive is in place and you are confident that everything is in working order it’s time to order your honey bees. The easiest way is to order Honey Bees from an established Apiary. You should plan on placing you bee order early in the winter, the average beekeeper orders their bees in January and February. The order is typically shipped in March and April. Most Apiary’s ship their bees through the U.S. postal service. When the bees arrive at the post office your mail carrier will call and ask that you pick up the bees. Very few mail carriers are comfortable driving all over the county with a car full of young angry bees in their car and most bees are healthier if they don’t have to spend several hours in a hot car. When you pick up your bees they should have been packaged in a special carrying case that is designed just for bees. This package will be a wooden framed “house” that has a screen covering the outside. This packaging allows air to circulate to the traveling bees and keeps handlers, such as post office employees, from getting stung. When you get your bees, do not be surprised if you see a few dead bees laying in the bottom of the package. Traveling is hard on bees and they can’t all be expected to live through the trip. The rest of the bees should be clutching the sides of the container. You will notice that one bee in the container has been separated from the rest of the hive.This is your queen bee. The rest of the bees in the container will make up the rest of your bee hives hierarchy. Some Apiaries ship the queen with a couple of nurse bees. The top of the queen’s container will be covered with piece of sugar candy. You should also see a container that is filled with a sugar solution. This sugar solution is what the bees feed on while they are traveling. Once you get your bees home offer them something to drink. You do this by taking a spray bottle and covering the container with a very fine covering of water.

Beekeeping isn’t just something you go into it’s something you’re raised and brought up in. Most companies that deal with beekeeping and providing beekeeping supplies are family owned. Dadant and Sons, a company based out of Hamilton, IL has been in the business of providing beekeeping equipment and attire for the past 140 years. They sell everything from beekeeping attire from the head to the torso, and even full body suits with headwear. They also sell journals that are published about beekeeping and also selling copies from the archives as well. They have a large selection of books for giving you a short course on beekeeping to candle making since many beekeepers also not only collect and sell honey, but they make things out of beeswax as well like candles. Most family owned beekeepers usually produce the honey and beeswax items on their farms and sell the products they make at local stores. Usually it’s a family business that has been a long-standing tradition. Most beekeeping families have been at this for several generations so it’s not a new thing many families get into with this. A lot of children grow up making this into their livelihood since it’s how their ancestors made their living. Many companies now are in fact commercially owned since so many family-owned businesses are forced out because of the rising cost of running a business and many mom and pop places that were not technologically advanced were the ones who suffered because those who had the resources to invest in websites and tools needed to stay ahead in the business were the ones who made the transition into the 21st century with their businesses. This was a business that began as a simple hobby and just a small way to make extra money on the side or to just have something extra for the dinner table since honey was super popular to be put on hot biscuits and toast for dinner and breakfast since it was used as a marmalade. Honey wasn’t really a huge resource at the time since people used sugar and other things like molasses to put in their food, but when it was discovered that honey was cheap and inexpensive to make that’s when beekeeping had become a hugely popular and profitable business for many families in regions that beekeeping was a widely practiced activity. As a result of how inexpensive it was to produce honey, which became what beekeeping has developed into today. The only issues was in this day and age more pesticides was being used and the problems with having to treat much of the honey that was being made which left a lot of people wondering how safe it was to consume such a product. It was a concern since you have the organic food movement that totally goes against the use of pesticides and any means to chemically alter or treat food or livestock used for food products. Today you have family owned companies at the commercial level that produce honey products and beeswax used in cosmetics and candle making.

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